Point thinning and slide thinning both soften hair but they serve different purposes and require specific tool preparation. Use this guide to decide which technique fits your client’s needs and ensure each pass stays controlled.
1. Quick comparison
| Technique | Goal | Tool requirements | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Point Thinning | Add subtle texture by opening/closing the shear tip near the ends. | 30–40 tooth U/flat-top blenders, convex edge optional. | Fringe detailing, removing minimal weight, refining curl ends. |
| Slide Thinning | Remove weight along the hair shaft by gliding partially open shears. | 30–35 tooth U/stepped blenders with polished convex edges. | Softening layers, creating movement, balancing dense sections. |
2. Point thinning essentials
- Section: isolate small panels (1–2 cm). Keep hair taut but not stretched.
- Insert: place the shear vertically or diagonally, using only the top third of the blade.
- Close and release: one or two gentle closures, withdraw immediately.
- Rotor control: rotate the panel slightly to keep texture even.
Common uses:
- Soften perimeter on bobs without altering length.
- Break up heavy fringe lines.
- Add light movement to curls after base cut.
Avoid: over-repeating in the same spot; it weakens fine hair. Always check balance after each pass.
3. Slide thinning essentials
- Prep tools: ensure convex edges are sharp, clean, and oiled (see slide thinning guide).
- Section: work mid-shaft, lifting panels to the desired elevation.
- Glide: enter with blades 8–12 mm open, glide downward while gently closing as you exit.
- Pass count: limit to 1–2 passes per section to prevent holes.
Common uses:
- Lighten density in long layers.
- Refresh grown-out texture without a full cut.
- Sculpt curls that need controlled movement.
Avoid: using bevel/micro-serrated edges; they snag. Keep at least 5 cm off the root to protect regrowth.
4. Tool checklist
| Technique | Tooth count | Edge | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Point thinning | 35–40 teeth | Convex or semi-convex | Go-to finishing shears; tension balanced to avoid snags. |
| Slide thinning | 30–35 teeth | Convex | Requires silky glide; maintain sharpening schedule. |
5. Troubleshooting
| Issue | Technique | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| “Holes” appear | Slide | Excess passes or deep notch teeth | Use higher tooth count; reduce pressure; blend with point thinning. |
| Ends look chewed | Point | Using too few teeth or closing too hard | Switch to 38–40 tooth U-groove; feather your closing motion. |
| Drag during slide | Slide | Dull edge or insufficient oil | Clean, oil pivot, test glide; send for sharpening if drag persists. |
| Line remains after point thinning | Point | Working horizontally or staying on the same spot | Switch to vertical insertion; move slightly along the section. |
6. Aftercare & maintenance
- Clean and oil tools after each session—product residue affects glide.
- Maintain tension weekly to keep tip control predictable.
- Sharpen convex edges every 4–6 months; point thinning relies on crisp tips.
7. Next steps
- Practise both techniques on mannequins, logging pass counts and results.
- Assign specific shears for point vs slide thinning to preserve edges.
- Update consultation scripts so clients understand the approach.
- Cross-link this guide in your training SOP alongside tool selection articles.
Mastering both techniques gives you flexibility—point thinning for precision, slide thinning for fluid movement. Choose the right method and prepare your tools accordingly to keep every service consistent.