How To Use Texturising Scissors for Layering & Blending

Texturising shears are the secret weapon for adding movement, softening lines, and creating airy finishes. This guide shows you when to reach for them, how to hold them, and the key techniques that produce salon-quality results without frizz.

Why texturising shears matter

• Add lift to flat layers and collapsed curls.
• Reduce weight without compromising perimeter strength.
• Diffuse seams where length changes abruptly (graduations, fades, bobs).
• Polish finishes after solid cutting with straight shears.

1. Choose the right texturiser for the job

| Purpose | Ideal tooth count | Notes | |—|—|—| | Soft texture / movement | 20–24 teeth | Medium spacing, polished V-teeth | | Seamless blending | 25–28 teeth | Balanced cut ratio, minimal grab | | Interior debulking | 14–18 teeth | Use sparingly; removes a lot of hair per pass |

Look for polished, double-ground teeth for silky cutting and ensure the handle ergonomics match your main shear.

2. Prepare the canvas

1. Cut the base shape with straight shears first.
2. Dry the hair (or leave it only slightly damp). Texture work on wet hair hides density and leads to surprises when dry.
3. Comb each section thoroughly—knots make texturising unpredictable.

3. Core techniques

A. Seamless layering

1. Elevate the section to 90°.
2. Hold hair between index and middle fingers.
3. Insert the shears midway along the strand, blade pointing up.
4. Close once, comb through, reassess weight. Repeat as needed.

B. Bob refinements

1. Stand behind the client, comb the bob flat.
2. Hold shears vertically with teeth toward the ceiling.
3. Skim the interior 1–1.5cm above the perimeter to add lift without disturbing the outline.

C. Curl activation

1. Work on dry curls only.
2. Pick up individual curls, pinch, and snip halfway down the curl to release weight.
3. Avoid the curl base to prevent frizz.

D. Fade polishing (barbers)

1. Place a comb horizontally at the blend line.
2. Close the texturising shear along the comb spine to soften dark spots.
3. Always comb after each snip to see the result immediately.

4. Grip and posture reminders

• Insert ring finger and thumb into the handle rings; rest little finger on the tang.
• Move only the thumb to open/close the blades.
• Keep shoulders down and elbows relaxed—offset or crane handles help.
• Maintain smooth tension; adjust the screw if the ride feels tight or loose.

5. Avoid these common mistakes

• Over-thinning: Repeated cuts in the same spot create holes; make one cut, check, then continue.
• Working too close to the scalp: leads to sticky regrowth and frizz.
• Horizontal passes on straight hair: results in visible steps—keep shears vertical or diagonal.
• Using dull shears: they bend hair instead of cutting it, causing damage. Service your shears annually.

6. At-home guidance for clients

If clients ask for at-home tips, give them guardrails:

• Thin less than they think—one or two snips per section.
• Work on clean, dry hair with good lighting.
• Stay away from the hairline and crown unless they’re trained.
• Book a professional appointment to rebalance the shape afterwards.

7. Maintenance basics

• Wipe blades after every client. Oil pivots daily.
• Store in a dry case, never loose in a drawer.
• Schedule professional sharpening every 9–12 months (more often for high-volume salons).

References

• Difference between thinning and texturising shears – Stay Sharp Shears
• Texturising techniques – Japan Scissors