Use this cheat sheet at the cutting station to match tooth counts with the blending or texturizing result you need. Combine it with our tooth geometry guide and fundamentals pillar for deeper context.
| Tooth count | Typical spacing | Cut rate (guide) | Finish & feel | Common uses | Example tools |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 42–38 teeth | 0.6–1.0 mm | 8–18% | Feather-soft, almost invisible | Final polish on fine hair, fringe refinement, curl detailing | Hikari Phoenix Cosmos 40T, Yasaka 40T |
| 37–34 teeth | 0.9–1.2 mm | 15–22% | Gentle blend with slight grip | Everyday finishing, face-frame softening, men’s taper polish | Joewell E40, Kamisori Serenity 38T |
| 33–30 teeth | 1.1–1.4 mm | 20–30% | Balanced removal, visible if overused | General blending on medium hair, scissor-over-comb finishing | Yasaka 30T, Juntetsu Offset 30T |
| 29–24 teeth | 1.4–1.8 mm | 30–45% | Noticeable texture, creates movement | Debulking dense interiors, modern shags, curl release | Kamisori Black Diamond 24T, Joewell HXG 28T |
| 23–18 teeth | 1.8–2.2 mm | 40–55% | Chunkier separation, bold texture | Correcting heavy weight lines, thick hair transformation | Jaguar CJ5 Plus 20T, Mina Jay 20T |
| 17 teeth and under | 2.2 mm+ | 55%+ | Aggressive removal, strong definition | Extreme debulking, creative sections, corrective work | Chunkers (various) |
Quick tips
- Higher tooth counts = softer finish. Use on fine or fragile hair.
- Lower tooth counts = stronger removal. Reserve for heavy interiors or corrective work.
- Always pair tooth count with tooth geometry (U-groove, stepped, flat-top) to fine-tune the result.
- Test on a small section before committing to your full plan.
Keep this table printed near your station or saved to your salon knowledge base for fast refreshers. When working below 24 teeth, rehearse on mannequins before touching live clients—chunkers remove weight fast and demand precise control.