Chemically treated hair—whether coloured, bleached, permed, or relaxed—needs gentle handling. Thinning shears can refine shape without compromising integrity when you choose the right tool and approach. This guide covers tool criteria, Australian-available models, and technique adjustments to keep chemically treated hair healthy.
1. Treatment-specific considerations
- Reduced elasticity: over-thinning can cause breakage or fuzzy ends.
- Porosity: hair absorbs moisture/products unevenly; pass count must stay low.
- Existing texture changes: perms/relaxers alter curl pattern; thinning decisions need to respect the desired finish.
Align your consultation with our client FAQ so expectations are clear.
2. Tool criteria
- Tooth count: 38–42 teeth for soft removal; optional 30–32 tooth blender for controlled debulking.
- Tooth profile: U-groove or flat-top teeth minimise aggressive bite.
- Edge: Polished convex edges glide with minimal friction; semi-convex is acceptable if well maintained.
- Spacing: Keep gaps under 1.2 mm to avoid grabbing fragile fibres.
- Handle: Lightweight offset handles reduce strain, encouraging gentle passes.
3. Recommended models
| Tier | Model | Tooth profile | Steel | Key benefits | Typical AUD RRP |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Premium | Hikari Phoenix Cosmos 40T | Flat-top 40 tooth | ATS-314 (60–61 HRC) | Ultra-soft finish, excellent for post-colour refinement. | $850–$900 |
| Premium | Yasaka 40T | U-groove | ATS-314 (60 HRC) | Lightweight, reliable convex edge, easy servicing. | $520–$560 |
| Mid-tier | Joewell New Era 40T | U-groove | Joewell alloy (58–59 HRC) | Smooth action, budget-conscious without sacrificing glide. | $320–$360 |
| Entry | Mina Classic 40T | U-groove | 440C (58 HRC) | Forgiving removal; ideal for junior stylists caring for treated hair. | $220–$250 |
Prices based on Australian suppliers (Japan Scissors, Excellent Edges). Confirm current deals before ordering.
4. Technique adjustments
- Limit passes: one pass per section; reassess before repeating.
- Work mid-shaft to ends: avoid close-to-root thinning on fragile hair.
- Feather closing motion: use only the top third of the blade to prevent chipping.
- Support curls: on permed hair, thin diagonally and maintain consistent curl direction.
- Finish with hydration: apply leave-in treatments to reseal cuticles after thinning.
Refer to our advanced slide thinning guide for glide control and our maintenance checklist to keep tools sharp.
5. Maintenance scheduling
- Sharpen convex edges every 4–5 months to maintain smoothness.
- Conduct weekly drop tests; dull or loose shears can fray treated hair.
- Clean blades immediately—colour and treatment products can corrode steel if left behind.
- Track each chemical service in client notes to anticipate next thinning approach.
6. FAQ
Is thinning safe on freshly coloured hair?
Yes, once the cuticle is sealed and hair is fully dry. We avoid thinning immediately after bleaching sessions until hair is stabilised.
Can I use texturizers?
Use high tooth-count texturizers only when necessary. Chunkers and deep V teeth are generally too aggressive for compromised hair.
What should clients do at home?
Recommend bond-repair treatments and thermal protection products to maintain cuticle integrity between appointments.
Selecting gentle, high-tooth-count shears and keeping passes minimal preserves the integrity of chemically treated hair. Pair these tools with disciplined maintenance and transparent client education for the best results.